A Piece of Paradise - My Barbados by Children's Author Helen Burns
I first fell head-over-heels with beautiful Barbados in January 2005. Pre-marriage, pre-children and pre-flight fizz booked, my now-husband and my twenty-something-self set off on our no-responsibilities package holiday to the platinum coast. Two whole weeks as part of the ‘fly and flop’ set. (Who even were we?!). As it so happens, my first visit to the tropical island was pretty much spent dodging rainstorms, so fly-and-flop was replaced with eat-till-you-pop. At which we were experts! We got to sample many delicious delights of the island, ranging from high-end (dining gems on the west coast such as Carambola and Calabaza - sadly no longer operating, and The Cliff - still going as superbly strong as the locally distilled and world famous rum) to Bajan street food of rotis and fish cakes.
Luckily, Barbados is not just all about clear waters and sugar-soft sand, (although it helps!), so despite the atypical weather I’d packed from Blighty, it’s safe to say I’d caught the Barbados Bug (and by that, I don’t mean the pesky mosquito). I fell in love with the island’s beauty (fringed palm trees, vibrant sunrises and pastel sunsets), the warmth and charm of the locals and the slow pace of life (as a now busy mum of two, this ever-so-relaxed-pace appeals all the more on our return visits).
Returning in 2011 (now married, still pre-children) and with the help of t’intenet, we abandoned the packaged holiday in favour for villa accommodation. The Sugar Hill Estate within the St James parish is a collection of luxurious properties spread over 50 stunning acres and it was our first peep into paradise. Nestled within acres of the island’s most magnificent manicured gardens, Sugar Hill is a five minute drive from all amenities of Holetown including beaches, luxurious hotels, restaurants, supermarket, Lime Grove Lifestyle Centre (home to designer boutiques, restaurants and cinema) and a medical centre.
Did You Know?
Barbados is split into 11 parishes (districts) and 10 of them are named after saints, each with its unique character and special attractions. St. Lucy (being the one and only female), St. Peter, St. Andrew, St. James, St. Joseph, St. George, St. Thomas, St. John, St. Michael, St. Philip and last but not least, Christ Church. We like to test ourselves on the 10 parishes whilst sampling a chilled 10 Saints beer! Along with the infamous Banks, is it definitely one (ice-bucket) for the tick-list.
Getting Around
Our go-to is St. James/St. Peter on the west coast, but the whole island is accessible to explore by car, bus, water taxis and island tours. Hiring a car is an excellent way to explore Barbados. There are many reputable car rental companies on the island. We like to collect our hire car at the airport upon arrival but most companies offer a free delivery and pick up service also.
Eat
Holidaying with a young family, our trips may include a little less wining and dining these days (ahem). Nightly dinner dates are replaced with lazy poolside or beachfront lunches. Early al fresco breakfasts are followed by beach strolls (sigh). And when the jet lag has waned, our girly-girls love to dress up for dinner, (what’s in the cat!). Here’s a pick of our current faves, (all with spectacular views):
All Day Dining
The Deck at Sugar Hill, (Holetown, St. James), Lone Star (Mount Standfast, St. James), Fish Pot (Speightstown, St. Peter)
Beach Vibe
SeaShed (Mullins Beach, St. Peter)
Farm to Table Experience
Local & Co (Speightstown, St. Peter), La Cabane (Batts Rock)
Afternoon Tea
Sandy Lane Hotel (St. James)
Luxury Fine Dining
The Cliff (Derricks, St. James), The Tides (Holetown, St. James)
Beaches
The west coast of the island boasts calm, shallow waters of the Caribbean sea, while the Atlantic-facing east side and its rugged coastline is perfect for riding the large, rolling waves.
Alleyne’s Bay situated on the west coast is a popular beauty spot. The sparkling, warm waters are perfect for swimming, snorkelling and sundowners. Local beach bars and restaurants include Ju Ju’s and Lone Star.
Sandy Lane beach is perfect for celeb-spotting during a barefoot stroll along the shore (it is also the platinum playground for guests staying at the hotel so public access can be tricky).
Sea
No trip is complete without chartering a catamaran tour. Indulge in a private or intimate shared cruise onboard a luxury catamaran. With transport to and from your accommodation, enjoy either a morning or afternoon cruise sailing the seas, with pitstops to snorkel, swim with turtles or simply enjoy the wind in your hair with a drink in hand. Anchor up for a delicious lunch and feel your shoulders loosen!
Island Friends
The Green Monkey is a common sight on the island and quite often a troop of mischievous monkeys will meander through the gardens of hotels or private villas! Locals believe that Green Monkey came from Senegal and the Gambia in West Africa 350 years ago. These monkeys are friendly and playful - a fascinating watch!
Garrison Savannah Racecourse
The Barbados Turf Club, which regulates and promotes horse racing in Barbados, was established in 1905 and organises three seasons of racing per year. With approximately 25 race meetings throughout the year running from January to April (Spring Season); May to September (Summer Season) and from November to December (Winter Season).
The Garrison Savannah has been the home of horse racing in Barbados since 1845.
Pebbles Beach Equine Experience
Set your alarm! One of the island’s best kept secrets is the sunrise swim of local racehorses. Early morning, following a race meeting, trainers take their horses to the beach for a swim on Pebbles Beach (Carlisle Bay, just south of Bridgetown). If you've never seen horses swimming before then you are in for a treat! The event takes place between 5.30am and 7am most days.
So almost two decades on, (we’re practically Bajan, right?) I’m now head-over-flats-than-heels as I was on my first visit. But as my own personal style has evolved, Barbados has too. It definitely has a bit more sophistication than the mid-naughties, but more charm and beauty than ever. With their abundance of vitamin D, nourishing nature, fresh food and laissez-faire approach, Barbados is winning at life.
Helen Yoxall Burns of Oh My Words
Buy Helen's Book Carleton's Motto Saves the Grotto
Recommended Self Catering Property
Palm Sugar Villa at Sugar Hill
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